Thanks, Keith, Here's some close-ups of the mod. It's not very pretty, and I made a few mistakes myself (a few of the caps are missing, so I bridged across pins 58,59,60 of IC112 instead. I thought I'd leave them on imageshack, so they don't screw up the thread. I not much of an artist, but here goes... http://imageshack.us/g/17/a130laserlessmodozone13.jpg/ I'll repeat some of the instruction here for clarity... In the first image, you need to bridge across where I've drawn the thin wires (bridge across ONE end of each RED cap, then bridge across one end of each YELLOW cap). The "bits at the end" which connect to thin air just show the cap Ground connections. The "current sense" caps are marked in RED (C125, C127, C128, C130). The 390 OHM resistor is marked in MAGENTA and connects from the "current sense" wire bridge (RED) to the "voltage sense" wire bridge (YELLOW). The "voltage sense" caps are marked in YELLOW (C120, C121, C123, then stretch the strand of wire across to C124). The 1K resistor is marked in CYAN and connects from the "voltage sense" wire bridge to Ground (you can solder it in parallel with any of the "voltage sense" caps). The GREY wire then connects the "current sense" wire bridge to pin 2 of IC110 (I've soldered it to the right-hand pad of R187 instead). Then remove resistors R369, R368, R366, R367 marked in ORANGE. (This disconnects the original "current sense" signals from processor IC112). In the second image, you can see where I've soldered one 10K resistor (RED) directly between the TMP2 and TH-L pads. The other 10K resistor (also RED) can be soldered diagonally between TMP1 and the right-hand end of inductor L305. (Actually, this inductor simply connects TH-L to Ground anyway.) The THOF pad needs to be connected to 3.3V to bypass the thermal cutoff switch... You can either connect THOF directly to TMP-H with a short wire link, or from THOF to pin 6 of connector CN207 (also 3.3V). That's it! Hopefully this will work with most A130's. I wouldn't have thought the A140 is much different, but the resistor divider values may need tweaking? For future experiments with RGB LEDs , you could connect some extra wires to the Phlatlight and Laser Bank ENABLE signals... Note: I was wrong about the Red Phlatlight ENABLE pin in my previous posts. EDIT: I've re-uploaded the photo to correct this. The Phlatlight Enable signal actually comes from the processor... IC112 (R5F212CASNFP 16bit MPU)... Pin 8 TO Red LED driver (IC410) pin 11 ENable! (via transistors Q401 / Q402 and filtered by C427) The RED wire in the photo is actually the ENABLE signal for the Laser Bank 1 driver chip!... IC202 - Lattice CPLD... PWM outputs (TO each LD driver)... Pin 1 (PWM) TO IC304 via R357 = LD bank 1 PWM / Enable Pin 3 (PWM) TO IC303 via R354 = LD bank 2 PWM / Enable Pin 5 (PWM) TO IC306 via R363 = LD bank 3 PWM / Enable Pin 7 (PWM) TO IC305 via R360 = LD bank 4 PWM / Enable btw, if you want to try lowering the fan speeds, here is a graph of your typical 10K thermistor... http://www.medteq.info/med/files/Image/NTC10k.png If you use 10K resistors for the thermistor bypass, the processor will think the laser block is around 25 degrees C... You could try slightly higher resistor values of around 12K-14K to see if the fans slow down. Again, I'm not sure how this will effect the cooling of the Red Phlatlight! The Phlatlight will still have it's temperature feedback, so it should be OK assuming it's own fan is regulated?? OzOnE. P.S. There may be a very simple and cheap way to generate the separate R/G/B enable signals. brb Last edited by OzOnE; 12-13-2011 at 23:08.